“Yes it's the new Touptek cooled mono Astronomy cam ATR585M, has response upto 1100nm with the Sony STARVIS 2 sensor. 90 secs exposure for the IR shot (with sensor cooled to -10 degrees for low noise) and then colour it red and overlay it on top of the initial backside IR shot taken with 1050nm IR LED's. ”
“Yeah public domain is fine and just credit “4e71” I guess, thanks. 🙂”
Package
“Yes, as someone here mentioned if you're quite careful you can bend the pins back 180 degrees one time without breaking them. Then I use this adapter I made to allow flipping the sides of the socket to allow direct connection of the inverted chip. Pic #1 is the 'scope setup with the trailing socket from the programmer on levelling/rotation table. Pic #2 is normal connection to programmer for normal chip pin to pin connection. Pic #3 is with the adapter added for flipping the pins on each side of the socket to allow connection of inverted chip with legs bent back 180 degrees. Pic #4 is the adapter, you solder direct pin to pin right down one side and then add wires connecting the opposite side pins. Pic #5 is the adapter from below. This allows flipped chip with bent legs to sit in normal position in ZIF socket and still be read as normal. 🙂 ”
“Yeah, just moving the X, Y and Z by hand by rotating the little wheels manually. 3 pics of the setup… the plastic base of the machine was useless, too light and flexible, so I replaced with an aluminium plate. Fitted the little camera with light (actually it's a USB microscope) and an attachment for the vacuum cleaner on one of those adjustable camera fixing arms to suck all the dust away.”
“I got the thinnest silicon wafer optical filter I could find here, 0.5mm + polished both sides, and it certainly cut 100% visible light but also cuts the 1064nm IR almost completely. At least 90% loss probably more, but not sure if the camera gain is linear so hard to be sure exactly. Tried with the 50w halogen lamp in the microscope and could only just barely get a reflection from the back of the die in brightfield at max gain with the filter in place , can't see anything inside the die at all and of course with the light loss of darkfield it's seeing nothing at all which is what I wanted to try. Pics here are with a 1064nm LED pointed directly at the die from the side, with filter in front of it and without the filter. It kills so much of the IR light that the camera gain needs maxed out which just creates a lot of noise as you can see.”
“So I tried soaking 3 chips in acetone, toluene and paint thinner (acetone, xylene and ethylbenzene mix) for 24 hours and none made any visible difference to the glue but all softened it enough to allow scraping it away fairly easily with a wet wooden toothpick. But all still left visible marks on the rear of the die which were causing IR hotspots. So still hoping for a purely chemical solution I tried hot (80 degrees C) drain cleaner for a couple of hours, then a clean with acetone. That's given the best result so far, still some hotspots left as you can see in first pic, focusing on the back of the die. But focusing past them onto the metal gives a pretty good result now, only the worst of the hotspots are still causing some noticeable flare. But looking pretty good now I think. 🙂So I tried soaking 3 chips in acetone, toluene and paint thinner (acetone, xylene and ethylbenzene mix) for 24 hours and none made any visible difference to the glue but all softened it enough to allow scraping it away fairly easily with a wet wooden toothpick. But all still left visible marks on the rear of the die which were causing IR hotspots. So still hoping for a purely chemical solution I tried hot (80 degrees C) drain cleaner for a couple of hours, then a clean with acetone. That's given the best result so far, still some hotspots left as you can see in first pic, focusing on the back of the die. But focusing past them onto the metal gives a pretty good result now, only the worst of the hotspots are still causing some noticeable flare. But looking pretty good now I think. 🙂”
